Hundred Acres

38 MacDougal St

I must admit I was skeptical of Hundred Acres. Despite the appeal of a changing menu dependent on local market produce (paramount to Chef Marc Meyer's cooking), I was curious if the restaurant could stand up to the quaintness of Provence, the restaurant that had previously inhabited the space. I was worried that in replacing the colorful French banquets and mirrors with marble and wood that the space would lose its charm. My skepticism was unwarranted. The decor was at once modern and rustic; sleek and still very much inviting. The gorgeous wood doors - remnants of Provence - have been maintained so that diners in the front room can gaze out at the quiet street. The bar has an elegant feel, while the back room and semi-outdoor back patio provide space for a more intimate meal.And as for the meal itself, the food was unquestionably fresh, though I felt that there were definite hits and misses. We started with the asparagus fritters, which were surely different but a little too fried for my taste. I also ordered the daily market greens with radishes and beets. I love beets, so in a city suddenly sprouting with beet salads I never turn down an opportunity to try a new interpretation. Meyers' version happened to be unique, though I wasn't too pleased with the taste: the greens were too bitter, the beets were served raw so that their flavor was indistinguishable from the radishes, and the dressing tasted like onions. Nevertheless, my lightly (and perfectly) grilled scallop skewers served alongside fresh dandelion greens with a simple olive oil drizzle won me over. That dish combined with the attentive and friendly waiter convinced me to overlook my earlier discontent. Despite the bustle in the restaurant, my waiter took time to tell me about the wine list. He described the Moschofilero (a white wine from Greece that I had never tried) as "dry and at the same time aromatic." He allowed me to taste it before pouring a full glass, and would have happily taken it back had I asked him to. But he was dead on; the wine was delicious, dry with a bit of a fennel aroma. Moreover, the flavor grew on me as I ate my scallops, making for a perfect pairing.

Their biggest success may be the accessibility of Hundred Acres: Meyers and Freeman have created a menu of items all under $22, making this beautiful and delicious restaurant a good choice for any night of the week.

- The Grazer