Lulu'

235 Mulberry St (between Prince and Spring)

Last night I had dinner at Lulu', a super chic new wine bar from the owners of bread, which is just around the corner. You could almost miss this new restaurant when you walk by due to its small storefront and very dark (albeit cosy) interior, but you shouldn't. Step inside and it's as if you are in a Prohibition-era cocktail lounge. Our bartender, Stephanie (who is also the owner's sister), shakes up unique cocktails like a Pineapple Margarita or a Cantaloupe Martini with fresh basil. The whole bar smells of her muddled mint and basil.

The food here is more refined than it is at bread. At Lulu', Exectuive Chef Eric Fleischer puts out carefully prepared "snacks" and entrees. The menu is short but covers all bases: a few salads, a couple of fish dishes, a pasta, a chicken, a pork loin, a steak and a burger. The snack list encompasses everything from roasted vegetables to risotto fritters to crab cakes, meant for grazing at the bar. Which I, of course, did. I opted for the long-stem artichokes and my friend had the risotto fritters. The portions were larger than I had expected for only $5 but, unfortunately, I think the taste can be hit-or-miss. My artichokes tasted like the ones that come canned in olive oil from the supermarket. But my friend loved his risotto fritters, which were large and fluffy and came with a side of fresh tomato sauce. And so I didn't allow myself to become disheartened just yet.

After our snack, we decided to sit at one of the intimate candle-lit tables lining the wall beside the bar. Our waiter was so friendly and helpful. Despite my reluctance to order a Chardonnay (I shy away from Chardonnays because I don't like that typically oaky taste), he promised we would love their bottle of steel-fermented Barboursville 2006 Chardonnay, and if we didn't he would take it back. But he was right. This wine had almost no smell but a surprisingly crisp and complex taste - first the taste of bananas and then apples. Best of all, it grew on me as we continued to drink it.

For di

nner I ordered the calamari salad, which is supposed to have frisee, calamari, proscuitto and sweet peppers. But I asked for it without the proscuitto and the waiter happily complied. It was delicious. The calamari was actually a touch floured and fried, but I didn't mind because the fresh lemon dressing was able to soak into the calamari giving it extra flavor. The frisee was light and the sweet peppers really complemented the lemony calamari. Overall, a great salad at a beautiful restaurant with a lovely staff. Definitely worth a return visit. Next time I'll just snack on something else.

- The Grazer